AROUND the 1900's, the moneyed Europeans who went off to warmer winter climes in the South of France, suddenly became interested in Sicily, writes Sylvia Kingsley.

They were probably inspired by the German writer, Goethe, who went on about it excessively in his book, Italian Journey.

Goethe reckoned one of the best views in the world could be seen from elevated Taormina. It is hard to agree unless you've seen the rest, but standing in the ancient Greek theatre, you do get overcome, especially at sunrise and sunset.

D. H. Lawrence was also smitten and stayed there from 1920 to 1923, further encouraging the British interest.

A plaque in the Via Fontana Vecchia honours his memory and there's always a child nearby who runs over to tell you their grandmother knew him.

Superbly sited on terraced hills about 1,000 ft above sea level, Taormina is a resort made for honeymooners, dreamers and artists.

Mighty Mount Etna is still very active, 25 miles to the south-west, and the more adventurous can take conducted tours into the mist on lower levels, by jeep or coach.

Enchanting Taormina is postcard pretty with many orange and lemon trees, tons of Bourgainvillea draped everywhere, charming small squares and those views at every turn.

Balconies are overloaded with flower pots put there by enthusiastic people sometimes, who have done a tricky balancing act. Watch out.

All bathed in a constant golden glow, the biggest decision is not where to go, because you don't want to go anywhere why should you?

But, where to sit for your coffee and pastries and admire the view and, which cafe you'll try later on, for another view?

Smaller piazzas lead off bigger ones, bustling cafes burst at every corner, so the choice is wide.

Architectural sights aren't numerous in Taormina, but there are some fine medieval buildings off the traffic-free main street, the Corso Umberto.

Old villas have been converted into hotels, retaining their former grandeur and style and there is a 13th Century cathedral with a rose window, old paintings and carved ceiling.

A favourite for sightseers is the Shrine to our Lady of the Fortress, on top of Mount Tauro, and the Sanctuario Madonna della Rocca looks out on one of the most beautiful panoramas of the town.

Built in 1640, the shrine takes advantage of the rock formation which forms a grotto.

The wide central Belvedere Piazza is surrounded by good restaurants and is a fine point for people and fashion watching. Close by is the San Domenico convent, once a monastery, later the Nazi headquarters of German Field-Marshall Kesselring, who surrendered to the Allies.

Now a luxury hotel, it has super cloisters and gardens you could spend a day in. While not casually open to non-residents, you can book a meal or tea here (check the price first) for a good look around.

But Taormina's Greek theatre is its masterpiece and dates from the third Century. The outlook, so dazzling, it distracts from what's going on in the arena; especially if you've come to enjoy the concerts and plays during high season. A favourite place for all kinds of festivals.

Huge and imposing, parts of the area still consist of crumbling rocks beneath the feet, so you do have to look where you're going. All part of the fun, though - just be sure you wear sturdy boots under the evening gown.

Taormina also has a good beach area with plenty of facilities, overlooking the tiny island, Isola Bella, but only recommended for strong swimmers.

The beach area known as the Mazzaro area, is connected to the upper town by regular cable-car.

With a rich cultural legacy, the area is worth exploring for fine mosaics and archaeological sites with lots of crumbling rocks.

Sicily has its own wines and cuisine, hotter and spicier than the rest of Italy; a legacy of Arab influence way back in history. One of the favourites introduced to the rest of the world is pasta alla Norma, a pasta dish, named after Bellini's opera, and featuring aubergine, basil, tomato sauce and ricotta cheese. A delicious meal, you can find in most Italian restaurants here.

Offshore island trips take you to the Aolian Islands, Vulcano and Lipari - the latter being the largest with a fashionable yacht club and harbour full of fine yachts.

Vulcano is the nearest. You can take sulphur baths here to ease joint pains.

Since Taormina is regarded as Sicily's most exclusive resort, its enchantment doesn't come cheaply, but it is highly recommended.

Fact File

Sylvia travelled with Italiatours Tel: 01883 621900; Fax: 01883 625255

She flew with Alitalia to Milan, before transfer to Catania by road.

In high season, British Midland fly direct to Catania Airport.

Sylvia stayed at the Ipanema Hotel.

Recommended Reading: Pocket Guide, Berlitz, Italy; Lonely Planet, Italy; Rough Guide, Italy; Cadogan, Italy.

Italian Tourist office: Tel: 0171 408 1254; Brochure line: 0891 600280.

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

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