WITH its head in the Med and its feet in the Sahara, Tunisia is an intriguing mix of European and Arabic cultures, which gets more eastern the further south you go, writes Sylvia Kingsley.

Sandwiched between Algeria and Libya, Tunisia maintains a cheerful independence, welcoming people from all parts of the globe and has a reputation for being very friendly towards tourists. It has hotels reaching western standards; good menus; a short on flight time from England, and long hours of sunshine.

There's a strong Gallic influence, as the French once occupied the country, and you can see it in the architecture and the cuisine. The bakery talent has been inherited and your morning croissants and crusty bread can match any bought in France. French and Arabic are the first two languages, but English is taught in schools, so you can get around easily providing you don't go off the beaten track. It pays to carry a small English-French dictionary when exploring independently, but don't entertain the idea of driving to far-off places.

The capital, Tunis, can now be enjoyed for a long weekend as well as part of a major holiday. Bustling with people in both Arabic and western dress, it has wide boulevards and many al fresco cafes with tables under bright umbrellas. For a snack in between strolling around, it's either a croissant or a brik, a light pastry filled with tuna and egg.

The huge medina (walled market) is mind-boggling, so vast is the choice: you could furnish a home here. Remember to always bargain, and look out for particularly good brassware and soft furnishings. For culture, the Bardo museum is a must. The mosaics are said to be the best in the world and the collections of pottery, statuary and ancient clothes are well worth a good browse.

The country is famous for its archeological sites, and you could fill a week just visiting them. Ancient Carthage, now a suburb on the commuter line from Tunis, is a widely-scattered site. Little of the original remains, but there are panoramic views, a good museum, and an ancient theatre, where Christians were once thrown to the lions. It is now the venue for popular concerts.

Sidi Bou Said, which is pictured on travel posters everywhere, is a blue and white artists' village, tumbling down a hillside overlooking the Med. Its whitewashed streets are dotted with blue studded doors and Moorish arches, and the pretty main square has cafes where you can rest while sipping mint tea. Carpet and bird cage shops and art galleries predominate, and you're bound to be tempted.

Whatever your faith, no trip to Tunisia is complete without a visit to Kairouan, the citadel of Islam. It is both holy and lively, you will be over-awed by the great mosque with its fantastic courtyard and cloisters.

Strong traditions linger in desert towns where descendants of Berber tribes still live underground in caves to avoid the fierce heat and cold. One such town, Matmata, was used for scenes in Star Wars.

Sousse is the third largest town, with attractions for all ages, especially for young families, with sands stretching for miles. Further north, Hammamet is a pretty and quieter resort again, with lovely shoreline and lush green landscape with many palm and orange trees. Golf and watersports are catered for everywhere and daytime activities include archery and camel trekking.

The laid back isle of Djerba in the deep south, joined to the mainland by a causeway, remains delightfully, unsophisticated and authentic. With a landscape as dry as a blotter, it has thousands of palm and olive trees, and still many unmade roads. Ulysses was said to have washed up here with his boat, and had to be dragged off with the crew, they loved it so much.

Hotels are all low rise on the beach and you'll have camels for company as well as people. Berber, Jewish and Muslim communities live peacefully together, and there is a 10th Century synagogue where people of many faiths come during the Harvest Festival. The Houmt Souk, the marketplace but more like an extended village, is pretty, with tiny streets, mosques and garden cafes.

Away from the town, one- to three-day tours are on offer. A day into the Chenini mountains takes you along narrow ledges and is for the sure-footed only. You can combine a hotel holiday with a few days in a Bedouin tent to get close to the desert, although the organisers stress "phones and transport are near at hand for emergencies".

Wherever you stay in Tunisia, you'll find good excursions to all the places mentioned, or you can rent taxis or get about easily by train.

Fact File

Sylvia travelled with Panorama Holidays of Sussex (01273 427777, fax 01273 427111) and stayed at the Djerba Palace Hotel and the Phoenicia Hotel in Hammamet.

Tunisian Tourist Board: 77a Wigmore Street, London WIH 9LJ (020 7224 5561, fax: 020 7224 4053).

Reading: Tunisian: Rough Guide; Tunisia: Berlitz; Tunisia: Lonely Planet.

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295).

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